Continental is the airline with which I'm most impressed. They are more lenient regarding temperatures because puppies are taken to the baggage claim office in the airport terminal, not to an external cargo office. They are at all times kept in a climate controlled area. If the combined weight of the puppy and carrier is over nine pounds, the charge will be approx. $206.00. (plus fuel charges.)  Two puppies flying together in the same carrier would be at the same rate, and so would a larger puppy. Optional flight insurance for a puppy is just a few dollars more.

If you decide to check flight availability on an airline's website, be aware that just because a flight is listed doesn't mean it handles live cargo. Many of these are "commuter flights", which means they are smaller planes. You must call the airline's pet shipping department for accurate information. Major airline pet shipping department phone numbers are listed below for your convenience. JetBlue will allow a small pet in a small carrier in the cabin with you for $50., but they don't have accommodations for pets to be sent unaccompanied as cargo. JetBlue sells soft-sided Sherpa bags for $60.; these are made especially for JetBlue.

Airlines other than Continental have temperature restrictions in the summer and winter. They will not take a puppy if the temperature will be above 80 degrees anywhere along the flight. In the winter, some airlines require a certificate of acclimation if the temperature will drop below 45 degrees. If the temperature is predicted to be 25 or less, pet shipping is suspended.

If I will be sending you a puppy on Continental, I will need the funds available at least three days before the estimated shipping date (no c.o.d.) Just prior to mailing the shipping cost, ask me to weigh your puppy so you'll know how much to send. If your puppy will be traveling on Continental, and you send the minimal shipping cost early, it is possible that your puppy's weight will exceed the 9 pound limit (when added to the weight of the carrier and bag of food) at the time of shipping. You will be responsible for the additional charge. Delta allows c.o.d.'s, so you may pay the shipping cost when you pick up your puppy at the cargo building.

The original travel certificate is only good for 10 days for the purpose of shipping, there is a $25. vet fee for this. I take all the puppies in a litter to the vet on the same day. If the travel certificate needs to be updated, there will be an additional vet charge.

If you have any questions about having a puppy shipped, please call me. DO NOT send a deposit on a puppy until you've made sure shipping arrangements can be made to your destination. Please check your calendar to verify you'll be able to go to the airport to pick up your puppy when it's 8 weeks of age, or the following weekend. When I've gotten the health certificate for your puppy, I will make the flight reservation, and email you the details. If the arrangement is for you to pick up your puppy at my home, please do not change to shipping at the last minute. I will have other commitments, and won't have time to take your puppy to the airport.

Contact several breeders, not just one. When you call, have a piece of paper handy so you can take notes. Here are some questions to ask:

What do they have available? When will they be ready to go? Most states require breeders to hold puppies until they are at least 8 weeks old. If a breeder offers you a 6 week old puppy, don't take it. The puppy will have virtually NO immunity to disease, and will be susceptible to anything it's exposed to. A good breeder knows this, and would never let a puppy go at less than 8 weeks of age, even if their state law allows them to.

Will they be examined by a vet? Most states require veterinary examination of puppies prior to sale, so if a breeder says his/her puppies will not see a vet prior to sale, deal with someone else, even if you have to pay more for the puppy. NEVER buy a puppy that has not been examined by a vet, no matter what the breeder tells you or how cute the puppy is.

What vaccinations will the puppy receive prior to sale? It's a good idea to wait at least five days after vaccination (if the puppy only receives one prior to purchase) before picking up your new puppy. This gives it some time to build immunity. If the puppy receives two vaccinations by the breeder, you can feel reasonably comfortable taking it home the day after the second vaccination.

Of utmost importance...
What is the breeder's guarantee and is it in writing? If the breeder will not put the guarantee in writing, go somewhere else. If the guarantee only states that the puppy is the breed represented and has been vaccinated, go somewhere else. A fair and ethical (and required by many states) guarantee should cover contagious diseases and congenital defects for a specific period of time. Read the guarantee carefully to make sure it does. If you're told your only option in the event that the puppy is diagnosed with parvo (for example) shortly after the purchase is to return the puppy, go somewhere else. What would you do if you had a puppy shipped to you with this sort of agreement, and it immediately got sick? How would you get it back to the breeder? Of course you would have to take it to your own vet, and the breeder would accept no responsibility for your vet bills, whether the puppy survived or not. If you're unclear about something in the guarantee, ask the breeder for clarification, and then have her clarify the point in writing. DO NOT assume the breeder will "do the right thing" just because she said she would. Also, make sure you understand what you're required to do to keep the guarantee in effect.

How long has the breeder been raising this kind of dog? Does the breeder own both parents of the puppies? If not, is information on the sire available? Are the puppies registered and will you be given the registration application ("puppy papers") at the time of purchase? Because my puppies are meant to be companions, they are registered with the Continental Kennel Club. Many breeders of companion dogs have switched from AKC to CKC.

Finally, ask yourself if you like the breeder. If something in his/her answers or tone of voice makes you uneasy, contact someone else. If he/she isn't familiar with the potential congenital defects associated with their breed, go somewhere else. If he/she doesn't sound very well educated, they probably don't know a whole lot about properly raising dogs, either.

• When you go look at puppies, (this is my pet peeve), please get there on time! Don't wear a knit sweater that can be picked by puppy toenails. Don't schedule visiting more than one breeder per day as this is how diseases are spread. You can carry parvo on your hands, clothes, and shoes from one place to another. Take a shower and put on fresh clothes before going to see other puppies. Ask to hold each puppy you're considering. As long as the puppies have been vaccinated, the breeder shouldn't have a problem with this. Does it feel solid and well fed? Is it clean? Is it reasonably friendly, or does it struggle in fear to be put down? Feel around the neck and the back of the ears for flea sores. The puppy should have no sores and no fleas. There should be no bald spots (possible fungus infection, flea sore, or mange.) Have the breeder open the puppy's mouth so you can check the bite - a slight underbite is acceptable in some breeds, but in many breeds it is considered an imperfection. If the puppy has an underbite, the breeder should be aware of it, the price should be reduced, and the registration should be "limited". If you're looking at poodles, ask the breeder if the puppy will be groomed before you take it home.
• If you're choosing your new puppy over the internet, ask for pictures of the litter and the parents. If the sire is not owned by the breeder, his pedigree and photo should be available. You might also request the name and phone number of the breeder's veterinarian, as a reference. The first question I would ask a breeder's vet is if the breeder has had any dogs or puppies with parvo (or any contagious disease) within the previous six months. If the breeder has a website, keep in mind it's primary function is as a marketing tool to sell puppies. This is fine, but do not be swayed by fancy graphics. Baskets of flowers and flapping angels are not an indication of a happy, healthy puppy. You want information.
• Once you've made your choice, find out what kind of food the breeder has been feeding the puppy. My puppies always go home with a sample bag of the food they've been eating. Ask when the next booster shot is due and write it down. If the puppy you choose isn't old enough to go home with you yet, keep in close contact with the breeder as your puppy matures. Email or call once a week to see how things are going, and to finalize arrangements for picking the puppy up. If you move or change your phone number or email address, notify your breeder immediately.
• The shopping list: two little separate bowls that can't be tipped over or chewed up (I like heavy ceramic), small latex squeaky toys for supervised play, stuffed animal or fuzzy-wuzzy (made for pets), Nylabone for chewing, puppy shampoo, nail clippers, blow dryer, a suitable brush and metal comb, puppy bed, wire crate or plastic carrier (not too small), newspapers (or "wee-wee pads"), and a book on the breed of dog you're getting. Rather than getting a crate or carrier, you might consider a used baby play pen. The size is good, they're easy to move or store, the puppy can see out, and they're usually pretty inexpensive at thrift stores or yard sales. Be sure to clean it before putting a puppy in it.
• When you take the puppy to your vet, take the shot record with you so he/she can start a medical record for the puppy. Ask about heartworm preventative and at what age the vet recommends spaying or neutering. I prefer to have females done at 6-7 months, males at 8-12 months. You do not want a female puppy to have a heat cycle before being spayed. Have the vet show you the proper way to clean your puppy's ears and clip its nails.
• If you plan to use a groomer, you might want to visit a couple and observe how the dogs are handled. Make sure the place is clean and the equipment is in good condition. The best way to find a good groomer is to ask a friend who uses a groomer for their dog.
• Spend as much time with your new puppy as possible. Talk to it and let it sleep in your lap. Don't leave your new baby unattended on the couch or bed, even for a minute. Don't expect miracles with housebreaking; be patient and consistent. If you don't want the puppy to chew on something, don't leave it on the floor! Don't let the puppy have access to electric cords. Don't let young children pick the puppy up - have them sit on the floor to play with the puppy. Don't feed it different things or give it milk - you'll be sorry as you're cleaning up the mess. Don't give the puppy free run of the house until you're sure it's housebroken. The more mistakes the puppy has the opportunity to make, the more difficult housebreaking will be. Don't expose the puppy to other puppies until after he's had his third vaccination, just to be on the safe side. Don't let the puppy walk outside where other dogs have gone to the bathroom. Give the puppy time to bond with you before taking it to visit all your friends and relatives.

That's all I can think of - good luck!